Conditions, Products, Skincare, Treatments

Managing Pigmentation

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26
Aug

As we’re well and truly in the cooler months , and summer tans have faded so many clients are coming to us with concerns of pigment, uneven skin tone and “age spots”. To discuss how we treat, manage and prevent these issues it is important to understand the different types of pigment, the potential triggers and the different approaches for each individual. 

What is Pigmentation?

Darkening, or discolouration of the skin. This is caused by pigment producing cells called Melanocytes, these cells are triggered or stimulated by a variety of factors, including:
  • hormonal changes
  • UV exposure
  • trauma
  • genetic predisposition
  • Along with more , or even a combination of a few!

The main types of pigment we see at Southern Cosmetics are:

1. Epidermal Pigment
2. Dermal Pigment
3. Combination Pigment

 

Epidermal Pigment

Pigment which lies in the Epidermis or superficial layer of the skin. This is usually freckles, age and sunspots. Generally speaking they caused by UV exposure, and are found in lighter skin types – however darker skin types with repeated sun exposure can also present with them. These are often light – dark brown, well defined  and scattered throughout the face.

 

Dermal Pigment

Presenting in the Dermis, the deeper layer of skin. Dermal pigment may have a combination of causes, such as hormonal factors, medication, genetics and/or sun exposure. This type of pigment is often a lighter almost greyish brown and appears more solid or closely formed than freckles. Some types of Dermal pigmentation, such as Melasma, can fade on their own (for example after pregnancy), some may require management.


Combination Pigment

A common example of combination pigment is Poiklederma of Civatte. Dark red and brown areas to often sun exposed and often forgotten – the neck and décolletage! This will often be accompanied by vascularity in the area.


Preventing Pigmentation

As we tell our clients daily, prevention is far more effective than treatment. Some common pigmentation triggers, are intrinsic or internal. For the most part these cannot be prevented, and include:

  • Genetic factors
  • Hormonal changes
  • Chronic disorders
  • Medication
  • Congenital pigment
  • Cellular Aging

However, external, or extrinsic factors are far more easily controlled and we can protect ourselves against these. Common extrinsic factors include:

  • Sun exposure
  • Trauma – remember these can be from cosmetic treatments as well
  • Topical treatments
Knowing what has triggered or contributed to your pigmentation can help us asses and plan the best way to treat or prevent further pigment. This is where your consultation with a skin specialist will come in!
The most important step in protecting our skin against pigmentation is wearing sunscreen daily (not just in summer). In warmer months or when you are spending a large amount of time outside, you do need to re-apply! Applying once (or just having an SPF factor within your make up) does not cover you for the entire day.


Our favourite sunscreens include:

 

  • Airyday range of Australian made SPF primers with skincare goodness
  • ASAP 50+ Hydrating Defence with Niacinamide
  • Skinceuticals Ultrafacial Defence SPF 50

https://southerncosmetics.com.au/product-category/sunscreens/

Skin Care

 

There are a few ways in which your skin care can help prevent or treat pigmentation:

  • Blocking or inhibiting the production and activity of Tyrosinase; Tyrosinase is an enzyme that is responsible for the first step in relain (pigment) production
  • Preventing the transfer of melanin to your skin skin cells from from the pigment forming cells, melanocytes.
  • Encouraging the breakdown of melanin
  • Producing free radical scavengers
  • Stimulating skin cell turn over

Some key ingredients that can achieve this and to look out for include:

  • Arbutin
  • Kojic Acid
  • Azelaic Acid
  • L-Asorbic Acid
  • Licorice root Extract
  • Vitamin A
  • Niacinamide

Our favourite products for pigment!

  • Skinceuticals Advanced Pigment Corrector
  • Dermaceutic Radiance Brightening Cream
  • Dermaceutic C25 Cream
  • ASAP Radiance
  • ASAP Super B Complex
  • Skinceuticals Phloretin CF
  • A bespoke pigment correction serum by Universkin

Treating Pigmentation 

We have a variety of resources at our disposal at Southern Cosmetics when considering the best course of action intreating your pigment. A consultation and assessment will help us determine what is most appropriate for each individual’s skin.

 

Some of the options include …

  • Laser
We would consider the wavelength and type of Laser best suited to your skin to achieve the best results, sometimes we may even combine modalities. We can utilise Q-Swtich, Nd:YAG or Erbium Lasers.
  • IPL
A great option for epidermal pigment and brightening and rejuvenating skin tone. Not suited for all skin types.
  • Chemical Peels
Great for lightening pigment, or even bringing pigment to the surface to be further treated. We have a huge range of superficial, medium and deep peels.
  • Skin Needling

Dermapen Skin Needling is another great option, we can also needle in actives that assist with pigmentation.

Your therapist will determine if a one off treatment or a course is best suited, what kind of prep or after care is appropriate and  what kind of time frame that will involve. You consultation is your first and most important step in treating your pigment.

Importantly:

Before undertaking any kind of pigmentation treatment it is important to ensure you have had your skin checked if you have any concerns or history of skin cancer. Whilst laser treatments cannot have any stimulatory effect on a malignancy; what they can do (and what they are designed to do) is eliminate a spot .. if you have not had that spot checked or if you attribute changes to that spot to the laser treatment rather than having it looked at, then this may delay the diagnosis of a lesion.

Living in the Australian sun means we all need to be aware of risks and sign of skin cancer.

A great resource is …

https://www.cancer.org.au/cancer-information/causes-and-prevention/sun-safety/check-for-signs-of-skin-cancer

 

Author: Nela Plecic, Dermal Clinician